From HGTV Canada:
Behind the Overalls: Ask Mike Holmes
Posted by Tina Taus, Web Producer Monday, January 14, 2013 1:00 PM EST
How time flies! We can’t believe it’s already been nearly 10 years since Mike Holmes first joined our airwaves. His 10-year anniversary is fast approaching, and to help kick it off we’re asking his fans to submit questions that you’ve always wanted to ask him.
Ever wondered how Mike got his start in TV? Or, what does Mike like to do when he’s not busy Making it Right? Now is your chance to submit those questions! Either email us at webmaster@hgtv.ca or simply post a question in the comment section below, Facebook or Tweet us.
You just might see the answer to your question from Mike himself in our 10 year anniversary special airing this Spring.
So get started, ask away!
My husband and I are pretty seasoned renovators, but when it comes to removing the indoor hot tub from our family room, we are a little stumped. The hot tub measures approx 10 x 10 and sits partially above ground and below. Under the tub is a concrete pit. Our question is how to fill the pit and level the floor properly so we can install new flooring throughout? The tub, we think, is at least 20 years old and here when we bought the house in 1995.
ReplyDeleteI live in a wood frame condominium in Victoria, BC. I would like to soundproof my inside bedroom wall which I share with the unit next to me.
ReplyDeleteWhat type of materials should I use and what contractor should I u
Thank you.
elesaux@shaw.ca
I had jet installed in my shower. The contractor forgot to install metal plates that should be behind the tiles. We told him he needs to re-do it take tiles off and put places back on. The answer we got that he would have to go from the outside of the house remove bricks and then install the plate back on because this is the only way he can do because he does not have an access to it. The other option was that he would move the jets to the side where he has an esay access since that wall is in our walking closet. can you advise us if that is the true thing.
ReplyDeleteThank you
Agnes
my email is awozniarski@mtsinai.on.ca
I moved into a brand new house a year ago and my new engineered floor started to creak and make cracking noises when you walked across it. I have spent the last nine months fighting with the contractor, flooring supplier, and flooring manufacturer to remedy the issue. A very long painful story of finger pointing that nobody would accept blame. The original floor is stapled to a plywood subfloor with black roofing paper as a moisture barrier to a crawl space. The contractor and the flooring supplier have agreed to rip out the old floor and replace it with the same product only this time they will lay a flooring membrane instead of roofing paper, staple it and also glue the joints as a cover their bases solution. Do you agree with the proposed solution to staple it combined with joint gluing?
ReplyDeleteThanks Cliff
My email is cliff.edwards@shaw.ca
Furnace question. With many homes i have a 6+ inch inlet hose that is directly connected to the outside to feed the furnace fresh air. The hose comes down about 8 feet then they have made a bend up of about 3 feet of hose and the end is open. In the winter cold air flows out and keeps the basement quite cold. Our basement is framed but that's it. If our furnace/laundry room was finished it would keep that room very very cold. This doesn't make sense to me , why have a super high efficiency furnace and have very cold air flowing in making the entire basement cold. Is there any solution to this because of now i have a towel in the end restricting the cold air flow. Thank you reply if possible to darrenfischer@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteIt is raining tonight and I do not know what to do...I had my roof redone in 2008 and I have a skylight in my bathroom..it is situated in the highest peak of my home. It is leaking and it appears that the water is running down my walls. I do not even know who to call or where to start. I feel paralyzed!! Water damage could be bad!! Do I call roofing people, window people..I just don't know??? Please help me!!!
ReplyDeleteI am wondering why the ceiling fan/light fixture in our family room makes pinging sounds ,like someone using their finger to tap on crystal . It does this most often when the fixture isn't even on. We bought it to replace the original fixture that I picked out when we had our house built 10 years ago because that one often had the bulbs flickering . I had 3 different electricians who said there was no problem with the wiring ( they blame the lighting store ) We also frequently have to replace bulbs .Even if they are the ones that are supposed to last longer they often burn out faster than incandescent . Please reply to laurenbethbanks@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteHi I have a bit of a unusual problem. On July 9 of this year I had a carpet cleaner come in and clean 2 pet stains,one in our living room and one in the front hall wall to wall carpeting.He used a product called odorcide. I have bad allergies and told him that I can't stand scented products. He assured me that in a couple of days any odor would be gone. It is now Nov and the smell is bothering me so much that I am at my wits end. I have burning tongue, mouth, throat and lungs. When I am out of the house for a day or two I am completely fine. I cut out the one spot in the living room in Aug and now have just cut out the spot in the hall. There is hardwood under the carpet but I think that the chemical has soaked into the spot in the hall as the wood smells. Now that it is winter and the windows aren't open it is even worse. I would take out the carpeting but if it is in the hardwood as well that will be very expensive I imagine to have removed and will that even get rid of the odor. I wonder if the odor isn't now permanent in my house. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated. I watch your show all the time and love how you help so many people out of their house problems. My email address is rjackson@sasktel.net if you need it. Thanks very much
ReplyDeleteHave you tried a vinegar/water solution? I know vinegar is used to remove odors in homes, clothes, etc. Just make sure you mix more water than vinegar for the solution as vinegar can be acidic and then rinse with clean water afterwards especially for the hardwood. I even add a bit of vinegar to my carpet shampoo solution when cleaning my carpets.
DeleteShould a flooring company that is removing ceramic tiles from the kitchen, seal off all entrances to other rooms in the house? The company that did the work in our house did not and we have substantial dust in all three floors, some quite thick. They also did not cover all floor registers in adjacent rooms that dust migrated to. They say "they are not required to deal the room in which the tiles were removed" unless "we ask "for this "extra service" at "extra cost" More over at no time do the company caution us about the dust that would be created, in which case we could have either asked for this service or sealed the room ourselves . The company did not use any tools designed to break up ceramic flooring with a vacuum attached to it. They did this by hammer and chisel only. The room was quite large. The dust is also in all cupboards on of all kind on two floors. I am also concerned about the impact on our health, the ducts and wonder if we should the extra step now and get them cleaned. Do we have any recourse? We are now incurring hundred of dollars to have the house cleaned professional by company that does post construction cleaning.
ReplyDeleteI am in the midst of renovating my basement bathroom. The contractor I hired wants to put the porcelain tile on top of my existing linoleum which is on concrete. Is this a good idea? I need an answer as soon as possible so I can let him know!
ReplyDeleteThanks!
We just had our roof replaced because it leaked. Now we still get ice dams and it started leaking again. Going crazy in Fort St John.
ReplyDeleteWhat might cause a foul odour coming from a bathtub drain after a bath or shower?
ReplyDeleteWe live in a 40 year old house in North Bay, ON. Lately the power has been flickering quite a bit. Earlier this morning the lights flickered than we heard a loud POP from the electrical panel and smelt something burnt. When we checked the panel we noticed that the top of the panel where the main switch is was covered with frost. About an hour later we heard another POP not as loud as the first and again we smelled like something was burnt. There was nothing wrong with any of the breakers that we noticed. We are worried about a fire starting. Worried in North Bay
ReplyDeleteHi there love your show. Question I have vinyl replacement windows throughout the house and I am finding bad drafts in the inner corners of the windows and have ice forming on the glass. What can I do.
ReplyDeleteI would think thsat drafts mean that the window seals are leaking a bit or there wasn't enough insulation put around the window during installation. But don't worry about a little ice forming on your glass, it just means that you have the proper amount of humidity in your house, unless there is an excessive amount of ice. Try lowering the percentage of humidity in the house or get better windows if that doesn't work.
DeleteThank goodness you're here! What is the best way to install ceramic tile over painted concrete? My contractor says it isn't possible. Searching the 'net, looks as if it can be done.
ReplyDeleteBeverly
I'm having a contractor finish my basement and he is telling me that I should not insulate my walls nor do I need a vapor barrier is this correct is he doing this the right way
ReplyDeleteYou definately need insulation ( I would suggest spray foam) and if you use fibre insulation ( Roxul) , you need vapour barrier. Get rid of him if he argues, he's an idiot!
Deletehi mike
ReplyDeletedo all windows installed in homes require weepers?
My question has always been: Why would anyone use Pecs rather than Wirsbo? The copper rings used in Pecs can expand with freezing and then continuously leak even after thawing and Wirsbo will not, as the plastic rings will tighten up tighter than they were when installed.
ReplyDeletewe had our outside doors replaced. they are fiberglass, and very nice, but the threshold is metal (i assume it's aluminum), and we are now getting ICE on the inside along the bottom of the door during weather below -15C. what would be the best way to fix this? other than that issue, we love our new doors.
ReplyDeleteIt's fairly obvious that not enough insulation was placed under the threshold, if any at all. Whoever put it in needs to come back and do it properly. We had 3 double doors installed by Rona's installer and we are totally satisfied. He insulated with sheet styrofoam (3 layers) and we have no ice, even at -35. Also you might want to check the percentage of humidity in your house, it should not be more than 32-34%. Thios is the way we operate our house in Edmonton and we have no humidity problems.
Deletethanks so much! there's no chance of them coming back, the company is no longer operating. I only saw 2 layers of styrofoam being put down, so I guess that's the issue.
DeleteDear Mike,
ReplyDeleteI bought 4 windows on sale 36'W X 48"L but did not realize that stock windows are cheaper but are 36" X 49"L. (There about, I am sure of one thing; the more affordablewindow is 1" longer then those I have put in. My question is. as long as I put the stock windows on the other 3 sides; will it hurt the appearence?
Hello Mike, Me and my dad and roofers and I bought my first house... lol its quite the fixer upper.. all the windows need replacing we hired an electrician to do the knob and tube removal and new wiring. but the main issue is the really old boiler and hot water tanks and lack of insolation me and my dad are thinking of taking the entire roof off and getting the attic and knee walls spray foamed and getting a new boiler / hot water tank but first off is spray foam good? and downstairs the boiler is wrapped in asbestos how do you get rid of that ? and lol sigh its just so much work lol.... but I mean I guess I am asking is it worth it to redo the insulation / get a new boiler and somehow insulate the walls and eventually get new windows? or should I just do the insulation and leave the boiler / windows. lol or just sell it as is and give it to the next guy lol
ReplyDeleteHi Mike, I have a sagging sidewalk that needs lifting. I was wondering if you had an opinion on conventional jacking vs void filling and lifting with expanding polymer resin injection?
ReplyDeleteWe bought a church built in 1874 that has been converted to a 4-plex. We added cellulose insulation to the attic in the fall. The south slope of the roof needs to be reshingled and add roof vents however, there is no venting on the bottom side as there is a 16" square beam that runs the whole length of the house on top of the wall with the roof right on top of that. How would you recommend we get air flow from the bottom of the roof to the top?
ReplyDeleteI have moisture in my basement but no water leakage. There is moisture on the walls in the furnace room but only white phosphorescence elsewhere. Part of the basement is finished and there appears to be some evidence of moisture on the baseboards. I have had a couple of waterproofing companies in and their quotes are very expensive. How do I know whether I need to do the whole outside or just part?
ReplyDeleteJust bought a new home and am going through the first inspection. There is a large hollow sounding area under the basement concrete- no cracks. They want to put in a filler that you buy at the hardware store. They say this is a normal industry fix. I want concrete to be the fill what do you think?
ReplyDeleteMr. Holmes,
ReplyDeleteWe have a 400 sq ft covered patio that we would like to fully enclose with windows and doors. Concrete slab: in 15 feet the drop is 4 inches. We would like to level this area. I understand that we'll need a moisture mitigation system installed. We don't know much about concrete either and would like to know if this leveling project is even possible to do in So. Oklahoma. I would like to know more before confronting a concrete contractor who tells me something that "isn't right." Thank you and we love your show and appreciate your vast knowledge.
It's time to reseal my travertine tile that is in my entryway and kitchen. Is there one product you would recommend over another?
ReplyDeleteHello Mike,
ReplyDeleteI am looking to extend a second floor deck. The building is faced with one layer or brick.
I have read that i should not attach a ledger board to bring because it cant support the lateral movement of the deck. How can I get this done right?
Thank you
I am a single woman (52) living alone and I need some advice regarding a shed in my backyard. The shed is built up high and on a slope. There is this gaping hole underneath. The previous owners had some lattice installed that right now needs to come down. I was wondering what else I could use, to fill in the opening, that would make the shed look a bit more attractive. It’s only a small backyard. Whenever I have people over the shed with its opening is right there for all to see.
ReplyDeleteWould really appreciate some feedback
I want to buy a Generlink, any thoughts or suggestions
ReplyDeleteHi Mike,
ReplyDeleteI live in the foothills west of Denver, CO. My house is wrapped in vinyl siding which a previous owner put up about 10 years ago. They covered cedar lap siding first with 2.5R half inch foam board then with the vinyl. I've started removing sections of the vinyl (revealing about 250 sq. ft.) to see the cedar in really nice condition aside from all of the 10 penny nail holes from the vinyl and foam board application. Can you offer any advise on if I'll be able to have a painter refurbish the cedar? Would I need all of the nail holes to be filled or would cleaning and staining the cedar be sufficient?
How do you keep the upper level of a house cool in the Summer?
ReplyDeleteI am currently having my home built and it will be done in 1 month. I want to build a deck once we get in as the builder wanted to much for a basic deck and i wanted to get more for my money and want to do it with a carpenter buddy of mine. I have been debating ledger board vs free standing deck and have done much research and find most people do not suggest ledger board on a brick veneer home as brick is not meant to hold any weight but its own, as well some people have mentioned that if you tighten the lag bolts to much its could pull the brick veneer closer to the house sheathing and bow the brick and compromise its integrity. I see Paul Lafrance using ledger board all the time on his show as well have seen the holmes show use it before as well. But am worried as no online source suggests it. As well a note the deck is a covered deck area and has a brick cladded post on the one side to hold up the roof and i wanted to do know if i could ledger board this post as well. Any advise would be appreciated.
ReplyDeleteHi Mike, was is the best way to insulate an already finished basement. House is in Toronto, built in 1963 solid brick, no insulation whatsoever. The basement has a kitchen and 2 bedrooms which I want to rent out and it is extremely cold in the winter so I want to make it more comfortable otherwise no one will want to live there. The north kitchen wall is plaster and the bedroom walls are wood panelled. Thanks so much. Lina Carinci.
ReplyDelete5yr old townhouse in Delta BC has thin walls. Suggestion on how to go about soundproofing adjacent walls. Remove existing gyprock & install higher quality?
ReplyDeleteHarrison BC home. 1500 sq. ft on 4 foot crawlspace,summer feels like central air as fall approches house is freezing by winter we dress as if we are outside. Any ideas what we can do.
ReplyDeleteHi Mike,
ReplyDeleteI am planning to insulate my basement, I live in zone 7, Timmins On. and would like to know what type of air barrier I should use on my concrete blocks before installing the comfort batt system.
Regards, Joe
HI Mr Homles,
ReplyDeleteI want to by a tankless waterheater. Buy when I looked at your show it mentions only gas feed tankless water heaters. I would like to know what model and make for electricity?? and what are the pitfall if any.
The rason I ask is beacause I live in Quebec and gas is not something my city offers. Thanks in advance and keep up the great work.
P.S. Oh buy the way my wife is french and she watched your show that is transilated in french. It gives us a chance to hear a show together, but a she now finds stuff for me to do at home...LOL Best regards Chris
I love the show Holmes on Homes! I watch every day. What I would like to know is how do these "home inspectors" retain their licences? Obviously they are totally inept. They tell victims that the home is perfectly okay and then the people move into this disaster zone. Are there no rules governing these people? Do they get fined when something like this happens.Do they actually have any building or construction experience? Maybe the government should only give permits to maybe retired builders who know what they are doing. This is very annoying to see how people are being duped. Thankyou.
ReplyDeleteI love your show. My question is I just moved to an apartment and in most of the eletrical outlets, the ground holes are filled with caulking or something. Is this a fire hazard? I don't know why somebody would do that.
ReplyDeleteHi Mike, i love your shows. we are turning a cold room into a bedroom. what type of electrical heater can we use. thank you in advance.
ReplyDeleteWe are finishing a bedroom in the basement, but it is directly below the master bedroom. There will be about a foot and a half space between the upstairs floor and the drywall of the basement ceiling. We are trying to find out what the best and most cost effective material to use for sound proofing between the floors. It doesn't have to be completely sound proof. Thank you for any suggestions you have!!
ReplyDeleteHey, if you are ever up for excitement, you'll have to do a show in fort McMurray. Lord knows if you want to see construction errors, you could find some dooz-ies here. After looking around at just about every kind of house here, we opted for an older home. We love it, it has a lot of character, and of course issues. We just had the roof done and the next project will be either the windows or the kitchen.... it needs both. My question is, the windows are double pane. Well exactly that two sliding windows on aluminum frame (probably had a sale on them, everyone has them). They really gather condensation in cooler weather, and ice up when its really cold... it seems to be only the rooms at south end of the house. We keep our thermostat at about 19-20, so not sure if that is what the problem is. We put some reflective window tint on windows this year to see if that would help retain the heat, so we can run thermostat lower, but... not so much. Any advice on the condensation problem? where to look, what to do? I love your show, and have learned lots.
ReplyDeleteOur family enjoys our 1970 home in Lake Elmo, MN, although the addition that was added in 2000 was not done very well. When we moved in 2006, the new addition was what attracted us to the house. We are at a crossroad, do we walk from the house or do we try to fix the roof issues. The valleys that were installed attaching the addition to the existing roof line were done so incorrectly. They had been replaced sometime between 2000 - 2005, and I also replaced the valleys - front valley in 2006 and the back valley in 2008. The front valley has a sewer stack that is in the valley and we cut the galvanized valley to fit around the sewer stack. In hindsight, we should have moved the stack. Also in the front roof area that drains/leads to the valley are 4 other vents. I am thinking that all 4 of these vents have some heat loss and help to make ice dams in the valley. We have also insulated to attic to a R-50 (2014), as the original insulation that was in place was only R-18/20. I think the prior homeowners chipped away at the ice and weakened the existing roof and it's ability to prevent leaks, The first summer in our home, we found water coming in near the valley/sewer stack, and the water traveled along a wire to a light switch in the addition. Since then and after replacing the valleys, we use a broom to sweep snow from the valley sections of the home. It's not so bad to remove the snow, although what concerns me is the front of the house is a two-story drop to the driveway. As I start to become older and more wiser, I realize that I am starting to worry about the fall to the driveway. So my question would be: I am looking for advice from a professional and trusted contractor(s) in the St Paul/Mpls area that could tell me how to best handle my roof issues. Can we successfully waterproof the valleys and leave the roof structure as is, or would it be best to create a new roof line, remove the valleys, and go to more of a low sloped A-Frame. Removal of the valleys would eliminate the funneled ice dams that lead to edge of my roof, and if I did have to remove snow from roof, I could push it, all be it a long way, to the side of my home where the drop is between 1 and 1 1/2 stories onto the ground, instead of the driveway, where it is two stories. We were going to replace the roof last year and had several estimates. Instead we spent on the money on insulation and a new foundation...which was not planned. The foundation under the front of the house under the garage/new addition gave out under ground and the addition started to sink. The cost to fix the base of the problem was that of a new roof. Now that we fixed the base problem, we want to fix the roof so that our home is safe and dry all year long. If you have any advice or contractors in the area, we would greatly appreciate your advice. We would not be comfortable walking away from the home as is, and we want to stay in our current school district until our children graduate. Passing the problem onto someone else does not sit well with us. Thanks for your assistance and consideration.
ReplyDeleteThanks,
Dana Nelson
We have the only below ground basement in the immediate area and have occasional flooding in the basement. We are on well, which is only 30 feet deep and then hits an artesian underground stream so the water level in the ground is quite high. We have 2 sump pumps going full time during the rainy season. My concern is damage to the foundation and if there is anything we can do to prevent seepage and flooding. This is usually only a concern if the sump pumps don't work (clogging or a power outage). Is there a problem with the drainage rock? My husband says no, it's just the massive amount of water in the ground and we are doing all we can. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteI am currently installing cabinets for home depot
ReplyDeleteI have 35 years exp. in cabinet building and design
I have never seen so many things go wrong in my life. every job is freeking wrong !
bad designers, bad measurements, making promises hey cant keep ect.
some of there customers are even left in tears ( a good way to spend a bunch of life savings. NOT! )
is Lowes looking for a good honest cabinet maker - installer around the London ares
starting to plan to frame basement, im using bluwood should i put something to seperate wood from concrete or just lay bluwood on concrete ? everyone has different views on this so i thought whatever you would reccommend would be the route i would go...
ReplyDeleteI'm installing a perimiter drain and sump pump on the inside of my foundation. It is a dirt floor crawl space. I'm trying to find out if there are any specifics in the Building Code that I should be following. Local contractors aren't willing to help out with "free information" and there's no need for me to buy a complete copy of the Building Code just for this.
ReplyDeleteAny help? Pointers? Is there anywhere I can access a copy of the Code? Trying to do things right.
I live in South West Michigan and redoing a bathroom with a exterior wall. My question is how to insulating that wall. There is foil faced foam board on the exterior which makes me question whether to install a vapor barrier on the inside, or cut out some of the foam board so that the cavity could breath with a vapor barrier on the inside?
ReplyDeleteAny thoughts would be appreciated
Thanks.
Mike Holmes: my name is Jason Clark i have a 1996 Moble home i have a floor that has been falling apart and instead of the person fixing it right they just laid plywood floor wood on top of it so i have like a 3 to 4 inch step to the back hallway i want to know how i can make it all level if u can email me back at jsclark3984@gmail.com and let me know what to do or if u want want to come to look at it let me know by email and i will send u my number to set a time and day thanks so much............... Jason
ReplyDeletePlease help! I live in a "Holmes approved home". Built in the last 6 months, the bathtub creaks, terribly, and has since first use. I brought the builder over and he said "it is normal, it is just the foam under the bathtub". I am having a hard time believing that because it feels like the tub isn't supported correctly. There is still access to the bottom of the tub because our basement isn't finished yet! Is this normal, and what should I do? Thanks, Kim Ness email: kimness79@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteBernadine Boissoneau GRFN
ReplyDeleteI have a airtight home built in 1998. I recently had the furnace replaced and the installer blocked the outside air intake and now the air take is inside the house. I think this is wrong but what do I know. Housing maintenance says that it is installed correctly according to the manufactures guidelines but to me it would be common sense to install the new furnace the way the previous one was, When it is really cold the furnace shuts off and I believe this is because of the way he installed the furnace. I want it fixed but they say I will have to pay for the changes and I think that the installer should correct this at his expense. What do you think? my e-mail is sweet_grass_pins@hotmail.com
Any thing you say will help even if I am wrong and this is not a concern
Just had chimney inspected with video of some cracked mortar and some holes showing brick. Recommended replacing with stainless steel liner. I am skeptical and nervous about this. I have seen 2 other options: replace clay tiles or new poured lining. Can you advise me on the best option, questions to ask and what to expect? I am afraid I will never want to use this 25 year old well used wood burning fireplace again. Thanks for your help.
ReplyDeleteI have a hairline crack in my garage floor close to the door and two similar cracks in the exposed concrete driveway. As best as I can tell, they are even (i.e. one side is not higher than the other). The house is now 12 years old and I am speculating that this may not be abnormal. However, I would still like to have this checked out properly to be on the safe side. Where would be the best place to start: a concrete repair company or an engineer. If the latter, I am assuming that one would consult a structural engineer. I would welcome any suggestions.
ReplyDeleteHi Mike,
ReplyDeleteThank you for all you do for people that have landed themselves in financial troubles with their homes. It's truly admirable. My question to you is regarding my new home that is in the process of being built. The laundry room will be on the second floor next to a bedroom (my mothers). I asked the builder regarding soundproofing the laundry room as I know it will be a noisy room. My answer was that it would be a waste of money. I have researched on line and it seems that it can be done with the combination of soundproofing insulation, resilient channels and quietrock drywall. This will be more expensive than putting in regular drywall obviously, but I was a little put off by the builder immediately telling me that it would be a waste of my money. I just find it wasteful to have them install flooring, drywall etc. just to have me rip it out later because my mom can't handle the noise, not to mention the extra money it would cost and maybe not be able to afford it.
Thankful for any advice you can provide us.
Linda
Mike,why on earth did you not put a bathroom in your ultimate garage? Seems like a big oversight..
ReplyDeleteDear Mike Holmes,
ReplyDeleteI would love to know what you would say to a 50 year old guy who for 30 years has been pretending to be a contractor, prying on older single women?
I was a victim. How can I help stop him from doing it to other women? Mike, I’m a fan from way back. When I was an interior designer I saw you at the Home Depot . I read your books and followed your advice when working for clients in Toronto. When I moved to Collingwood Ont., unfortunately I was in a vulnerable place and this guy took full advantage. We are in small claims court and the judge suggested I get an engineer to value his work. Have you ever heard of such a person or service?
While I look after my Father I want to start a campaign to get guys like this “pretend contractor” off the streets. There is a huge population of senior single ladies up here who need help. I should have known better having been in the business, so I want to take my horrific experience and help other women to not go through what I did. Thanks Mike you have been an inspiration to all who really care about others .
Hi Mike, we live in White Rock, B.C. and we are redoing our covered front porch (it is inside the foundation walls) with porcelain tile. We plan to replace the existing plywood with 3/4" plywood. Do we need to put cement board on top of this and then the waterproofing membrane? Also, what mortar should we use and what grout? The tiles are 16" x 24" and the porch is 7 1/2' x 21' . 18" at the front is on an overhang extending over the foundation wall.
ReplyDeleteCan I notch the bottom of a 7.25x9.5 beam to fit a 7.5x8 pocket, if not can I still notch the beam and put a jack post next to the wall?
ReplyDeleteWhen waterproofing basement, is it worth it putting styrofoam on outside walls below grade, is rhat a good idea and if so where does the styropfoam go, right after blue shild or after plastic membrane that protects blue shild from rocks or if putting styrofoam do i need that plastic at all?
ReplyDeleteJust wondering if you can recommend a structural engineer in the Burlington Oakville area who would come to my home to give advice on headers for load bearing walls.
ReplyDeleteHi We are a small family farm with on money to fit basement. That we call it our indoor pool that you can't swim in. Do you know someone who can help. Without us having to sale farm to fit bad leaks in basement. HELP!
ReplyDeleteWe purchased a house that we knew we would be putting work into and the guy we bought it from put work into it (himself) to flip it (he bought as a foreclosure). Now that we have started our reno's we are running into numerous electrical junction points hidden in the walls, outlets run with old extension cord wiring, wiring hidden in the walls that has been cut (yes they are all live). We believe we have uncovered all that the previous owner touched but what we are wondering is whether or not there is any recourse against this guy for leaving such a fire hazard in place? We are going to report him to the ESA because we know of another house he is in the process of flipping, but seeing as we have a baby on the way and knowing the hazard we have been living in because of this guy that just wants to flip and make a buck, there has to be recourse against him??
ReplyDeletelori_1978_pelletier@yahoo.ca
Palling on building an exterior extension (wood) onto an exterior triple brick wall. The floor already exists...about 2ft thick concrete slab. Do we seal the brick wall first? Do we leave it exposed or cover it and insulate it for maximum heat retention in winter?
ReplyDeleteS
We have a home built in 1968 which we purchased 2 years ago. It had a cathedral ceiling in the living room as well as a bay window, also in the living room. When we moved in there was a small crack in the ceiling moving perpendicular to the peak of the ceiling. There was also a crack on the interior of the bay window under the window frame. Now, 2 years later the bay window crack is worse and there are now cracks on all four corners and one in a foot from the edge. The bay window is an addition but we don't know how long ago it was put in but are pretty sure it was not professionally done.
ReplyDeleteIs it likely that the window is pulling from the house and also that it is causing the ceiling crack as well?
Is it instead likely that there is water damage which has come in through the dried out exterior caulking that was on the bay window?
Hi Mike,
ReplyDeleteMy husband and I have a dilemma. After discovering a bathroom leak under our master bathroom cabinet, we removed all the damage from cabinet, title flooring, shower tub, to the drywall directly underneath the bathroom . . . such as the ceiling and walls that also appeared to have been damaged. Our homeowner's insurance sent out a crew to clean, dry and test for any mold.
Now, we are left with a destroyed bathroom we need to totally gut and renovate. We have started to research contractors. We've received quotes from $27,000 to $44,000. This to me seems outrageous to us . . . as it is a lot of money to pay for such a small space.
We're torn. Is it worth doing all this work on the house, which in about 5 or so years we're going to sell? What home renovations actually add value to a home? Is it worth spending more money on a bathroom to make it the way we want? Or, do we just do a basic renovation (nothing fancy) of our bathroom, and spend money on updating our 20 year air conditioning unit (which threatens us every year that it's going to die), and install new ducts that aren't sealed or connected properly???
PLEASE HELP!!!!
Mike, What do you think about Sharkbite plumbing fittings? I am a little nervous... Thank you in advance.
ReplyDeletehi Mike
ReplyDeleteWe have put an offer on a 60 year old home with a block basement (all exposed) The basement has a cold room as well. We are concerned about the strong musty smell. Is it a good chance the basement has mold growing somewhere we can't see? If so, is it expensive to remove?
Thank you
Do all house inspectors have in their contracts that they do NOT comment on odors such as chemical smells, moldy smells etc. and why is this. Our home inspector would not comment even though we could smell strong musty smells in basement.
ReplyDeleteI have found a 4" hole through the poured concrete foundation wall in the basement ceiling to the outside, which I am assuming was for a vent from the proposed bathroom. The hole is about an inch up from grade and right beside the side door for the house. Since I can't just put in a vent (for fear of water coming in from rain and snow), how can I run the exhaust duct and where?
ReplyDeleteWe are in the process of building a new home with a "Green Builder". He is suggesting we use a system called "InsulSpan" instead of stick framing. Can you advise on pros and cons of this system and would you recommend or use it?
ReplyDeleteHave lived in my new home for ten years. Had to have exterior of home painted. Exterior of home is mostly stucco and it good shape, house is only ten years old. Hired a paint contractor that was recommended, he has license and checked out ok at BBB and state contractor board. Went from a light color to a dark color. After job was completed, paint comes off stucco very easily, Any place stucco is touched new paint comes off and old color shows through. Contractor keeps telling me this is normal on stucco that has been painted for the first time and you have to expect this when going to a dark color. None of this seems right to me. Can you please advise me on this. Thanks
ReplyDeleteNoticed 1 drip yesterday late afternoon, by the morning there was several drip spot. Plumber came that morning, pulled out the entire ceiling in that room, fixed the pipe. Noticed that the beams in the attic are very wet. Plumber is allowing 24 hours for the beams to dry before replacing the ceiling. Is 24hours long enough to allow attic beams to dry? I do not want to worry about mold growing after everything has been replaced.
ReplyDeleteWe just had our bathroom completely redone. I do not know what it is called that they used in the tub surround under the tile, it was not cement board as it was very light weight. Our question is, should the seams have been taped before the cement type stuff was used to fill the gaps or is it water proof just by them filling the seams with the cement stuff.
ReplyDeleteHi there, it's time to replace the silicone around our hot tub which is sunk in to the floor in our sunroom. On the front side, who ever applied the original silicone about five years ago must have used a different sealer. It's difficult to remove. It's yellowish, cracked and so dry. Can you advise if there's a product that will make it break down or how else I can remove. I tried a utility knife cutting away and silicone be gone but nothing. It's very rubbery. Help!! What else can I do?
ReplyDeleteHow can you remove old dried silicone that's cracked and yellowish. Tried everything on market. Any other suggestions?
ReplyDeleteHello, Can I use rigid polystyrene foam panels to insulate my below grade crawl space block walls. In this application, does it comply with Ontario Building code, if no fire barrier is used, meaning the foam boards are exposed ?
ReplyDeleteWe are looking to re-insulate our attic. There is wiring up there. We wanted to know the correct way to lay insulation with the wiring so as not to create a fire hazard.
ReplyDeleteI have a small basement, only under the kitchen,the rest is crawl space. My basement is constantly wet and mud flows in with the water. The sump pump is often clogged from the mud. How can I keep mud away from the sump pump?
ReplyDeleteMy basement is constantly wet, and mud flows in with the water. The mud often clogs the sump pump. How can I keep the mud away from the sump pump to keep it from clogging?
ReplyDeleteI plan on removing a Jet Tub that is 72 in X 42 in and installing a walk in shower , question, to go with Ceramic Tile or Cultured Marble with no grout joints . What is the better way ?
ReplyDeleteThanks
Hey Mike.
ReplyDeleteIm building a new house and want to make it very energy efficient. I'm in Chicago where the winter's can be harsh. I want to use the combination of spay in insulation and raidiant heat throughout. I want to use Warmboard have you heard of this and what do you think? And how do you keep the humidity levels right in a all raidiant heated house? Are there any other things I should address?
Hi Mike. Why are heaters typically placed under windows when the heat creates unnecessary condensation?
ReplyDeleteHello Mike,
ReplyDeleteMy husband and I are looking to purchase a 3 year old home. Upon our second viewing of the two story home, we noticed that in the basement there are doubled up tele posts in 2 different locations (4 posts total) holding up a metal I beam. One post is in the cement floor and the other is on top of the floor about a inch or two beside it. This had been done in a second location in the basement as well. Also, the post in the cement floor seems to be at its maximum position. This set up appears to be a quick fix for settling. We thought this was curious because we have never seen this before in all the basements we have ever been in. Is this something new or is this a horrific accident waiting to happen? We have not yet made an offer and have a feeling that it would not pass inspection.
Hello Mike. A few years ago, we got our water heater replaced. We live in Saskatchewan, and was wondering if it was safe for the heating installers to use ordinary copper water pipe for the gas line?
ReplyDeleteHello Mike
ReplyDeleteI'm having a hard time understanding how i can surface the exterior of my home with cedar shack and give the best insulation between that and my outer wall. My house is old and i have plank boards existing. I live in Canada and need some help to seal properly.
my email address is sappermonty@hotmail.ca
Is it OK to put a new tub over an old one?
ReplyDeleteIs it okay to put a new tub over an old one?
ReplyDeleteWith a wall above a tub, would you want a water membrane on the ceiling and walls
ReplyDeleteI have a 50's rancher with a sagging roof. Walls cracking, moulding pulling away from walls. Roofer told me that the joists were too far apart. Need to do some repairs, but want to get this fixed first. Who would I contact to do that. We are senior citizens and don't have a lot of $, but need to ensure that we don't lose the home to this terrible problem. Don't think we could even pass a home inspection because of this. Thanks for your help. I watch your shows and hope to find this problem, to help us. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteWhen it comes to tiling a floor with heat mats and uncoupling membrane. Does the heat mat go under the membrane or above it? And do we layer everything with thin set. For example, thin set and heat mat, thin set and membrane, and then thin set and tile. I just would like to do this properly. Thank you and have a wonderful evening.
ReplyDeleteSher C
When it comes to tiling a floor with heat mats and uncoupling membrane. Does the heat mat go under the membrane or above it? And do we layer everything with thin set. For example, thin set and heat mat, thin set and membrane, and then thin set and tile. I just would like to do this properly. Thank you and have a wonderful evening.
ReplyDeleteSher C
Hi Mike,
ReplyDeleteJust put in new hardwood flooring. Our dog went to the washroom on it & it went through the cracks of the wood onto the plywood underneath. Will this cause an odour now & if so how do I fix the problem?
We are leveling our cottage, as well as putting a new roof on. Can we put the new roof on before leveling the cottage?
ReplyDeleteWe own a four year old home situated near Lake Simcoe. The basement is unfinished and has a sump pump that runs about every 20 to 30 minutes.
ReplyDeleteAfter the first year we noticed moisture stains along some of the cracks in the floor.
This year the stains have significantly increased as have the number of cracks.
Can you explain what is happening and what needs to be done?
We own a newer home in Manitoba(5 years old), and for the last 3 years during the summer months, we seem to be having moisture problems in our second story wall cavity. On really hot days, our south facing wall seems to be emitting a damp/musty/mildewy smell. I could feel a breeze coming from a plug outlet on that wall. We removed the drywall, and discovered that we have water condensation on the exterior side of the vapor barrier. We suspect this is the culprit to the smell. There was signs of water damage on the base plate of the exterior wall, but it was dry when we opened it.
ReplyDeleteWe have also had the same problem in our north facing wall, but to a lesser extent.
We originally thought it was an attic problem, so we had several vents added, to ensure proper ventilation. Still no luck.
How can I fix this problem?
We have 2 young children (4, 2 yrs) and are worried about mold.
When we built our house 20 years ago, our front porch with balcony on top, was fine. But apparently they used backfill under the concrete slab floor. It has cracked all around the porch foundation. It is sinking around the outside edge and has a big crack all the way around the porch which is cause the tile to be lose and come off.
ReplyDeleteHow can we fix with problem? We have consulted the company that lifts concert by using infusing the foam product under the concert, but they said that it might crack some where else then.
Any ideas? Thank you
im getting ready to redo the exterior of my home , new windows , r10 rigid foam and cenexel , its an old home and air leaks are pretty bad.. im scared that once done my home will be too air tight .. what then . ?? installing a hvac in an old home can get pricy .. not sure what to do .
ReplyDeletemy email is ravenma@icloud.com
I had a contractor install an extremely heavy frameless shower door on top of granite step and now I cannot open it either to get into the shower or out of it. I am a 66 y/o woman with arthritis in her right hand & he knew that too. The seal on the door is very, very thick. Is there any way that it can be cropped back at least on the side of it so the darn thing will open? I had a strong man try to go in and out of the shower and he couldn't budge it either! I am a widow with no one to help me & am at my wits end as the contractor keeps telling me he installed it correctly. I love you show so I am hoping you can help me out here. Mrs. Snook in PA
ReplyDeleteHi Mike, I have a question. Once drywall gets wet should it be replaced? We suffered damage from a bad hail storm. Over 50 holes in our roof, 2 came through the ceiling into our home. Insurance company says once the drywall is dried just paint over it. They refuse to replace. I am concerned about mold growth and weak drywall. Advice please?
ReplyDeleteHi Mike, I am going to start finishing my basement with concrete block walls. I saw you recomended a while back 2" rigid foam boards with Tuct tape glued to the wall with the proper adhesive. then put the 2x4 frame againsed the rigid insulation, with no need for vapor barrier or fiberglass insulation. If I wanted to, could I add fiberglass insulation in the studs, or would I want to avoid that due to mold?
ReplyDeleteHi Mike
ReplyDeleteI have and app't in the basement of my house and I would like to cut the noise between both floor what can I do to cut the noise, is there a special insalation that would help. What can Ido
Hey Mike, I watch your show often and you give me a lot of things to look at and the right way to do things properly. I'm what you would call a jack of all trades and master of none.You may laugh but I do pretty good. I live in South Carolina, Myrtle beach area and I'm just about done giving my home a major overhaul. What I would like to know is, all the home owners that you help what happens to the contractors that do the improper work. Are these contractors contacted about what they have done or is something done legally or made to compensate the home owners for their work. I've always wanted and would like to know. Thanks for your time RALPH
ReplyDeleteHey Mike, I've tried several times over send a blog but I don't think I got though. I watch your show often and it has helped me look and do things properly. I have one problem with I'm not sure what to do. I've had a roof put on and I've noticed that the roof sages in the center.how can I repair this without removing the roof. Can I slowly jack the roof up and put braces in? I married into the house and had to do a lot of major work. The roof braces are made of 1x6 and if I go about what I have planned I'll use 2x4s resting on the 2x6s. Let me know. Also the home owners that the contractors that do the work that you have to redo properly is anything done to them legally or do they just get away with it. Thanks for your time RALPH
ReplyDeleteHey Mike... I'm replacing a deck on the second floor with a redwood deck. Does it have to be painted or can it be sealed with a deck sealant?
ReplyDeleteHi Mike... I'm replacing a second floor deck with redwood. Does it have to be painted or can I use a sealant? Thank you... Kay
ReplyDeleteMike I'm not sure you or any of your staff are replying or monitoring this regularly, but here is my question. For spray foam I see you do mostly open cell then use a vapor barrier and drywall to seal it. Do you prefer this method over closed cell or is it a cost measure. Most of what I have read, people prefer the closed cell for not having to worry about vapor barrier and dry wall with vapor sealing paint.??? Let us know thanks
ReplyDeleteGod bless
Jeff
We put an offer in on a home and during the home inspection found the siding has asbestos! Any recommendations or suggestions as to remove it vs paint over it ?
ReplyDeleteWe have an approx.9x11 kitchen floor. The floor slopes over 3"toward the outside wall. What is the best way to level the floor before laying a new one? We are renovating the entire kitchen
ReplyDeleteIs it "normal" to have someone replace windows and then caulk around them because they don't fit?
ReplyDeleteI am looking at buying my first home. There is an attic that is finished but the stairs to the attic are like boat stairs is there any way they can be changed to a regular set of stairs. There is not a lot of room were the stairs are at.
ReplyDeleteWe are putting new floors in our kitchen. Before doing that I would like to (naturally) get walls and openings the way I want them. Several years ago we took out a load bearing wall between the kitchen and another room to enlarge the kitchen. We added an addition the same size as our original house to the kitchen side of the house in the early 1990's. Before putting the new flooring down, I would like to enlarge the doorway between the kitchen and the newer livingroom. Sine that wall was an exterior wall originally, can that be done? Should we just enlarge the doorway and not remove the wall all the way to the ceiling or can we remove it all the way to the ceiling? If this can be done, do we need to put in a lam beam the whole length of that portion of the house or just where we remove the wall?
ReplyDeleteWe are putting new floors in our kitchen. Before doing that I would like to (naturally) get walls and openings the way I want them. Several years ago we took out a load bearing wall between the kitchen and another room to enlarge the kitchen. We added an addition the same size as our original house to the kitchen side of the house in the early 1990's. Before putting the new flooring down, I would like to enlarge the doorway between the kitchen and the newer livingroom. Sine that wall was an exterior wall originally, can that be done? Should we just enlarge the doorway and not remove the wall all the way to the ceiling or can we remove it all the way to the ceiling? If this can be done, do we need to put in a lam beam the whole length of that portion of the house or just where we remove the wall?
ReplyDeleteWe are putting new floors in our kitchen. Before doing that I would like to (naturally) get walls and openings the way I want them. Several years ago we took out a load bearing wall between the kitchen and another room to enlarge the kitchen. We added an addition the same size as our original house to the kitchen side of the house in the early 1990's. Before putting the new flooring down, I would like to enlarge the doorway between the kitchen and the newer livingroom. Sine that wall was an exterior wall originally, can that be done? Should we just enlarge the doorway and not remove the wall all the way to the ceiling or can we remove it all the way to the ceiling? If this can be done, do we need to put in a lam beam the whole length of that portion of the house or just where we remove the wall?
ReplyDeleteHere in ontario canada the building inspectors still want vapor barrier between insulation and drywall when using rigid foam board as a thermal break against concrete, speaking in basement finishing specifically.
ReplyDeleteAre they just behind in code changes or what's the reasoning?
I am tired of telling customers the proper way to do things scientifically when inspectors come along and tell us the wrong way to do things.
Can any pressure be put on our local inspection authority to get modernized?
Hello. A friend is currently building a home in Prince George, BC. The permit was made in May 2016.
ReplyDeleteHe is dealing with a very difficult woman in regards to the building code. She claims he isn't allowed to use red tuck tape and now blue is the only accepted tape. She fined him 100 dollars for "wasting her time"
Yet I can't find any information in the building codes on this.
Would you be able to shine any light on this?
This woman is becoming increasingly difficult to deal with and is threatening to put a stop work order to the whole project based off this tape issue.
Hi, I have made the mistake in striping wallpaper off a small bathroom walls without painting after do to the cost. Now, I have mold growing. Is there a safe effective, cheap way of me removing it from drywall myself? I have done a little research on the matter and some sites recommend vinegar, baking soda, etc… Once I try this will it be safe for me to paint once everything is dry. Or do I need to replace the drywall? Unemployed and need a cheap solution to my problem. help!
ReplyDeleteHi, there was old wallpaper coming off my bathroom walls. I had made the mistake in stripping without painting immediately after. Now I have mold growing. Is there a cheap safe way of getting ride of it myself? Done some research and it suggest vinegar, borax, etc… is this an effected, effective way to get rid of it? And can I paint after everything is dry? Unemployed and need a cheap solution, Help!
ReplyDeleteHello. I have listened to you explain building principles do's and don'ts for years. I have come across a situation with my roof that has me stumped. I am not a builder just a DIYer.
ReplyDeleteI had storm damage on the roof where shingles were cracked and missing. I have to replace a roof on an entry way addition. The addition and house were reshingled @ 15 yrs ago. 90% of the house is still in exceptional condition.
Here is my issue..
I wanted to put in a fan in the bathroom in the addition and tore up all the shingles and was going good til I got to the Ice and Water barrier. Shingles were stuck into it pretty good. Now I have to replace the wood under the I&W. the question I got is to keep the underlayment in good condition is it "OK" to lay starter strips over the entire I&W not overlap just "BUTT" them up to cover the I&W?
HOW CAN I MAKE SURE WHEN I AM DOING MY ROOF IT IS VENTED RIGHT
ReplyDeleteI WOULD LIKE TO DO A SHAKE STYLE METAL ROOF I LIVE IN ST PAUL
MN
Why is it that in Québec they have to strap the 'inside' of the outside walls. Of course, it is normal to strap the outside of the outside walls, but why strap before we put the drywall up? That doesn't make sense, since the air there would be trapped anyways. Here, in BC, it is very humid, and no-one straps their inside walls. Any reason why this is a law in Québec?
ReplyDeleteHello,
ReplyDeleteI need HELP. When I purchased my home four years ago, one of the selling features were the ceramic tile floors in the kitchen/dining area. Little did I realize large sections of the floor would "tent" up off the floor, leaving me with the question of WHY? I had one section go about a year ago and another this summer. I have attempted to contact at least 20 tile contractors, but my problem isn't big enough for them to bother with. Do I just need to rip out all the flooring and start over? The problem is whoever did the floor put down the tile and then put in the cabinets. In order to remove the floor correctly, I would have to remove the cabinets by which time I may as well just gut the place and renovate the whole house. Really don't want to go there. And yes, some of the tiles are broken so I don't have enough to just re-lay them.
Thanks
Hi Mike, we are having condensation issues in our lower level, it is our utility room, 4 ft. below ground level, 4 ft. above. On the south side of the house, studded, insulated, vapor barrier on inside wall. Part of the confusion is the wall is roughly 20 ft. long, the first 8 ft. or so is dry,it is near a door that goes back into the finished man cave and divided from with a door. the remaining 12 ft. is moist on the inside of the plastic, the insulation is moist on the inside side, the outside wall is quite warm from the sun shinning on it. There is a sump pump at the end of the wall on the moist end. There is no heat run directly into this space, so can air circulation be an issue? Any help would be MUCH appreciated. Thanks, Dan
ReplyDeleteDo you have to pay for the remnants of a quartz slab used for counter tops? Do you also have to pay for the overlap measurement of the corner of an L shaped quartz counter top?
ReplyDeleteHi Mike,
ReplyDeleteI was told by my cabinet installer that I had to pay for the overlap in the corner of my L shaped quartz counter because it is 1 piece. He further stated that if it was 2 pieces I would only pay for 18.23 sq ft. The actual sq ft of the piece is 18.23. I'm being charged for 22.93 sq ft. IS that right?
Do you have to pay for the remnants of a quartz slab used for counter tops? Do you also have to pay for the overlap measurement of the corner of an L shaped quartz counter top?
ReplyDeleteHi Mike - I have lived in my home for 21 years and have had water infiltration in my cold room above the door. they tried to fix the problem once but did not succeed. above the cold room door is my patio door. do not know if water is leaking down from patio door when it rains hard or can it be coming thru the brick. enough is enough - how can I locate the infiltration. thanks you.
ReplyDeleteWhen you walk into our home, you can smell mold but I don't see anything. any old leaks have been fixed and there is no basement. I did smell it about a year ago, but have lost my sense of smell. Can you recommend places to check for mold. Who do I call? Can it be measured in the air? We've lived here for 26 years and are probably due to remodel a little soon because I believe my health is being affected by it. We live in the country and I don't know where to start. What do you suggest ?
ReplyDeleteJust moved into a newly constructed home on a slab foundation. Must wait 1.5 to 3 full minutes to get hot water to any faucet in the 2-story home. No one told us this was typical. What can be done to boost hot water to faucets?
ReplyDeleteThank you.
Just moved into a newly constructed home built upon a slab foundation. How can we boost hot water to all the faucets in this 2-story home. Wait time now is 1.5 to 3 minutes for hot water to reach faucets. Terrible waste of gallons of water.
ReplyDeleteThank you.
Electronic Thermostat for hydronic systems can be set in single digit degree only, but are precise to 0.15 degree C. Why can't they be set in half degree, I.e. 22.5 instead of 22 or 23? The only was to have narrower set points would be the Farenheight scale.
ReplyDeleteMy husband and I are having a metal roof placed. Shingles were removed and an ice and water shield placed. Now they are going to put on the metal roof. We thought furing strips were supposed to go down then the metal. The contractor says that will cause moisture and eventually rot. Wanted to verify with you which is correct.
ReplyDeleteOne of the outlets in our bedroom (located on an outside wall) has condensation behind the cover and had mold on the wall around the receptacle box. We had to change out the receptacle itself due to being corroded. Opened up the wall a little and found surface mold on the insulation and saw more going towards a wood window (which is about 1 foot away), and the mold got less has I went up the wall. All of the outlets on the other outside wall are fine. Unfortunately this is the only outlet on this wall. This happens during the summer months, so far nothing during the winter. Could the window be causing this issue? Thank You for your help.
ReplyDeletemy house is for sale & I want to know what is the most important thing to look for in a house to buy that I don't end up with a lot of costly repairs later. Thanks Mike, love your show
ReplyDeleteI have a small addition that was added to my mini home for cold water tank and central vac that needs heat inside. I have added a spotlight for some heat but also have a space heater. The space heater shuts off after while as it overheats. Do you know what I could put in there that would stay on all the time and does not require alot of electricity or more wiring right now?
ReplyDeletewe have a very low sloped roof on our store. roof is covered with tin, that is still in very good shape and not very old. when the snow starts melting, or we get heavy rains, the roof leaks. it leaks from various spots where the water runs off very slowly. is there a product that you recommend that can be sprayed or painted on the roof, to help waterproof it? thx lorne64@hotmail.com
ReplyDeletemy house needs to be insulated and re-sided. Can I go from the outside to insulated and if so what do I use. The house is over 40 years old and pieced together with old barn wood. so there is not 16" on center going on. I would love to hear your input. I'd rather move.
ReplyDeleteWhen new houses are being built why is all the work finished on the inside before the siding goes on? Just curious.
ReplyDeleteWhen new houses are being built why is the siding put on after all the work on the inside is done? Doesn't it make sense to apply the siding right after the tyvek is on? Just curious.
ReplyDeleteWe have a persistent problem with our front door. We get dripping each spring around the seal and the drywall by the door seems to have water damage. We've had the door replaced and have had the problem looked at but no one seems to know why. We live in Winnipeg Manitoba and are looking for someone who really knows their stuff. Any suggestions or recommendations of who we should call please? e-mail: Shirley.bray-mak@shaw.ca
ReplyDeleteI'm hoping to convert a historic hall addition to a church both built in 1876. The area has a cathedral ceiling and the walls are 12 ft high. The windows run from 4 ft off the floor to 10 ft off the floor. Can a second floor be pocket framed around the windows to allow 2 ft of the windows exposed for lighting as well as esthetics? The exterior cannot be changed to retain the historic value. Clear as mud?? Thanks so much!!
ReplyDeleteI am renovating a home, upper story and a half is true 2x4 construction that houses two bedrooms. I removed the drywall from the structure and it is presently craft faced insulation, I have removed this product and I am looking to replace and improve the ventilation. I only have the "True" 2x4 space to work with. I was wondering if I were to construct my own baffle that allowed for 1" ventilation, using 1/4" SM, and place roxul and 6mm vapor barrier on interior if this would be the best solution.
ReplyDeleteMike,
ReplyDeleteWe have lost some shingles due to high winds and would like to get a steel roof installed a.s.a.p.. Can you recommend a company in the G.T.A. who would do a good job of installing now in winter in Scarborough,ON?
Hi Mike, I remember seeing you put a groove under the edge of porch boards and this will stop the runoff of water going under the boards, am I correct in thinking this is correct, what can I use to do this a router????
ReplyDeletewhat is the best way to stop woodpecker from putting holes in my house?
ReplyDeleteHave a wooden basement that is below ground. Would like to make a concrete walkway beside the house. Is it ok to have the walk way close to the house. Want water to run away from house. Concerned that it may allow water to flow back to house. Foundation is clay and we do have cold winters which may cause the ground to shift a little
ReplyDeleteA week ago,we noticed water forming on the hardwood floor in the living room of our bungalow. We dried it but it keeps coming back, a few drops at a time, sometimes as big as a tablespoonful.It is always on the same spot. It sometimes doesn't come back for a few hours, but usually more often than that. There does not seem to be any water pipes nearby, no staining or dripping anywhere else. All that is below seems to be the return air duct. No water coming out of the return air vent which is about 3 feet away from the spot. HVAC don't think it is their problem. I have the windows shut and dehumidifier on in case of condensation, but the water keeps forming. Thank you for any help.
ReplyDeleteHi,
ReplyDeleteI am considering purchasing a water access cottage in Muskoka which was built in 2008. Unfortunately, there was a marital dispute and the cottage was never lived in. Upon inspection we have found considerably black mould under the muskoka room lining all the engineered floor joists and cement board subfloor. I have had a restoration company come out and they have quoted $20,000 for removal of mould and drying of cottage which hopefully will bring back some of the cupped engineered hardwood in the living room. They estimate an additional $75,000 for proper drainage around the perimeter of the foundation. installation of evestroughs and poly barrier on the dirt floor. The basement has a poured concrete foundation with one side having approximately 8 feet of headroom and the other side maybe three feet due to bedrock. My question is, before putting an offer on the place, at the right price, can engineered floor joists be properly cleaned or could I be looking at a condemned building. Any advice you can give regarding proceeding would be most helpful.
Thanks,
Gary
Hi! We moved into an updated 1950s home. The basement appeared finished, comfortable and dry however the "cold storage room" located under the front porch had a musty odour which got progressively worse in the 3 years we loved here. It became so damp and cold in the "finished" cold room that we felt the best thing to do was to tear out the drywall, exposing a lot of moisture, mildew and probably mould. We hoped that getting rid of those material, we find a leak or a resolve to the issue as the room didn't seem to be finished correctly. Now we have an unfinished storage area that is still damp and cold and musty. We have no idea where to go from here. We are thinking of tearing out the small brick porch and sealing off that storage room, or repairing the issue in the cold room and possible leak(?). Being inexperienced and on a budget we just don't know what is our best bet but will need to fix this as we suspect the separate cold room is a major musty odour and moisture problem in the basement. Help!
ReplyDeleteThanks in advance.
Newbies in New Brunswick
I am insulating my attic and have run across a problem. It's an older house and the sloped portion of the ceilings do not penetrate into the soffit area they end on the top plate. What's the correct way to insulate and or ventalate this?
ReplyDeleteI have a 3” abs drain pipe in the wall of a kitchen I am renovating and the pipe has always creaked and made noise. The pipe which comes from the basement floor 8’ then jogs through a floor joist with 2 45 degree fittings and then runs another 8’ up to the 2nd floor where it serves the 3 bathrooms upstairs. When there is warm to hot water used this pipe is expanding and contracting 1/2” to 3/4”. My question is this 3” pipe is solid abs, would the newer cellcore abs be less susceptible to expansion and contraction?
ReplyDeleteHi Mike,
ReplyDeleteI moved into a 4oyr old two story brick house two years ago. Whenever the wind is up (seems a lot more often than in my youth). The south wall creaks. It sounds a bit like an in oiled door opening/closing or a couch creaking under a person's wieght. Should I be concerned
Hi Mike
ReplyDeleteI moved in to a 40yr old two story brick house two years ago. Whenever the wind is up, the south wall of my house creeks. It almost sounds like an old chair or couch creeking from the wieght of someone sitting down. Should I be concerned
Mr Holmes-
ReplyDeleteWatch your show every chance I get. How do you deal with a contractor that insists we pay him over $4000 for work that has not been done to our satisfaction. Everything he has done has fallen apart. He put door frame up and it has come down. Our patio is so unlevel that we cannot use it. What can we do? My husband is a disabled veteran, and is very upset over this-as am I. ilcowgirl@consolidated.net
Hi Mike
ReplyDeleteWe have ceramic tile floor and are thinking about putting vinyle floor down in it’s place. Can we put the tile over the existing tile?
Hi Mike. I LOVE YOUR SHOWS.
ReplyDeleteplease tell me how to safely without damage to window frame metal, loosen and remove epoxy used to put metal piece next to installed ac and window frame please
Love your shows. please tell me what chemical to use so i dont damage metal window frame. i need to loosed and remove epoxy from metal window frame and ac.
ReplyDeletethank you
Hi Mike. I LOVE YOUR SHOWS.
ReplyDeleteplease tell me how to safely without damage to window frame metal, loosen and remove epoxy used to put metal piece next to installed ac and window frame please
Hi Mike. Love your shows.
ReplyDeleteplease tell me what chemical i need to sefely with no damage to metal window frames. metal sheet from window frame and ac unit.
thank you
Hi Mike. Love your shows. Please tell me what chemical i use to do no damage to "metal" window frame that same type of "metal" used to attach to window frame and ac unit). thank you
ReplyDeleteMr. Holmes
ReplyDeleteI was watching the episode when you were doing your sons new home . Where can I find the wrought iron fence with pre- holes for the wood slates . I really love that fence and would like to put one up at my home . I need to know where can I purchase it at. Thanks for all the information you give on your shows it is very helpful.
Mr Holmes where can I buy the wrought iron fence you put up in your sons new home . That has the holes already for the boards ? Thanks
ReplyDeleteWanting to know specifics about the roofing material put on Mike, Jr's Bungalow/House and if this type would be appropriate for a home in mid-Missouri, USA?
ReplyDeleteWe closed on a condo on 12/22/2017 and had a good (we think) home inspection. The past few days we have had a knocking sound coming from the basement(near the furnace). My husband went to inspect and he found several cracks in the floor joists. What should we do to fix the problem. We are not sure if the knocking sounds are related to the floor joist problem. Thank you.
ReplyDeleteHi Mike, I have a question related to basement wall insulation.
ReplyDeleteI moved to a new house 4 years back in Ontario Canada and am thinking of finishing my basement. New house wall is currently insulated with TLP foundation blanket by the builder all the way down to the floor.
Question is should I remove this and insulate with foam ? or can I keep it and do the framing on top of TLP?
I see a lot of contradicting articles related to this. Some says remove while other says go with it.
I want your opinion on it.
Hi Mike, I have a question related to basement wall insulation.
ReplyDeleteI moved to a new house 4 years back in Ontario Canada and am thinking of finishing my basement. New house wall is currently insulated with TLP foundation blanket by the builder all the way down to the floor.
Question is should I remove this and insulate with foam or can I keep it and do the framing on top of TLP?
I see a lot of contradicting articles related to this. Some says remove while other says go with it.
I want your opinion on it.
Hi Mike,
ReplyDeleteMy question is I have a cold storage room and it is starting to smell. I don't use it and was wondering if could drywall the door over to seal it off from the basement? If not what could be done to keep smell returning.
Thank you
I live in Norther BC. Frost line is about 4 feet. Dug around my new 35 year old wood foundation that goes down 3 feet. Solid sand, silt , clay soil. No moisture or water damage, but pressure from soil bowed walls in 1.5-2 inches. Should I replace back fill or put sand aggregate in? I think sand would prevent the pressure in the future, but what was there caused no moisture. I can't find anything definite for this situation.
ReplyDeleteChecking wood foundation of 35 year old house in Northern BC. Dug down through hard sand, silt, clay - 3 feet to sill. No moisture or sign of any water damage, but pressure bowed wall in 1.5 - 2 inches in two rooms. I am going to backfill in two weeks after I straighten walls. Replace with sand or put back what was there?? I thought the sand would prevent the pressure from pushing it again, but worry about putting back anything different.
ReplyDelete